Prior to attending the highly anticipated Fall/Winter ’20 presentation, Dirty Pineapple’s Instagram page gave followers an inside look into the inspiration for the newest collection. “For Fall/Winter 2020 we explore the concept of narcissism across our modern spaces today. With its ability to transcend fixed meaning over time and ignite within various people a unique feeling, we wonder what the term channels in our present time and for tomorrow. F/W 2020’s overriding gesture is to question the various notions and impressions surrounding concepts of narcissism today, as well what we consider narcissistic behavior and/or its opposing equivalent, and weighing these next to our previous observations.”
The Instagram page displayed impromptu interviews of what masculinity and narcissism meant to the participating models; reminding audience members that models are real, vulnerable & insightful individuals. When the models were asked what the term masculinity meant to them, Dirty Pineapple’s Fall/Winter ’20 model Ryu shared his thoughts. “Masculinity means for me, just doing what makes me happy…. doing whatever I want. My dad always told me growing up, “A real man wears what he wants.” This was when I asked him if I’d get made fun at school if I wore a pink shirt, and that’s been his response ever since. I feel like in the future, gender should be eradicated. Everybody should look at others as individuals, and appreciate that.”
Connecting the origin of the collection to the rawness of mental illness created an alluring and real storyline that was, in short, ingenious. This created a not so black-and-white narrative, one where attitude does not come from rigidity, where a suit does not necessarily need a proper tie, where class does not equal classicism - a new raw luxury experience. The odd and twisted visual vocabulary of Dirty Pineapple is a mix of color combinations, gender contrast and vintage styling. Similarly, the fashion houses’ designer, Nellie Wang, tuned into the complex theory of rhapsody. This is often difficult to characterize and interrupt, as it’s typically a visual encyclopedia of several variations of geometrical shapes and themes.
Pertaining to the multiplex theme, the opening melody had a moody beat that blared the word ‘narcissist’ on a continuous loop. The phrase ‘Raw Narcissism’ was subtly encrusted onto each piece, emphasizing the significance of the collection. Following careful interpretation, the use of carefully selected color palettes were used to represent emotional states, drawing on the phrases ‘mellow yellow’ & ‘head in the clouds’ as inspiration. The collection was the essence of gender fluidity as the diverse group of models donned sky-high heels, elaborate neck-ties & structured suits. The eccentric Chris Habana pieces seamlessly tied the collection together while delivering unique, practical fashion.
Dirty Pineapple’s Nellie Wang used the Fall/Winter ’20 collection as a brave and inspired opportunity to venture into the discussion of mental health; bringing depth and overall significance to NYFW.
(Runway Photography: Salvatore Dragone and Paolo Lanzi Imaxtree)